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Survival Field Expedient Weapons

12/27/2014

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By Survival Ready Blog Team

In survival situations, you may have to fashion any number and type of field-expedient weapons and equipment to survive. Examples of tools and equipment that could make your life much easier are ropes, rucksacks, clothes, nets, and so on. We’ll touch upon other types of tool in a separate post. In this post we’ll focus specifically on weapons and tools that can be used as such.

Weapons serve a dual purpose. You use them to obtain and prepare food and to provide self-defense. A weapon can also give you a feeling of security and provide you with the ability to hunt on the move.

CLUBS
You hold clubs, you do not throw them. As a field-expedient weapon, the club does not protect you from enemy soldiers. It can, however, extend your area of defense beyond your fingertips. It also serves to increase the force of a blow without injuring yourself. There are three basic types of clubs. They are the simple, weighted, and sling club.

Simple Club
A simple club is a staff or branch. It must be short enough for you to swing easily, but long enough and strong enough for you to damage whatever you hit. Its diameter should

fit comfortably in your palm, but it should not be so thin as to allow the club to break easily upon impact. A straight-grained hardwood is best if you can find it.

Weighted Club
A weighted club is any simple club with a weight on one end. The weight may be a natural weight, such as a knot on the wood, or something added, such as a stone lashed to the club. To make a weighted club, first find a stone that has a shape that will allow you to lash it securely to the club. A stone with a slight hourglass shape works well. If you cannot find a suitably shaped stone, you must fashion a groove or channel into the stone by a technique known as pecking. By repeatedly rapping the club stone with a smaller hard stone, you can get the desired shape.

Next, find a piece of wood that is the right length for you. A straight-grained hardwood is best. The length of the wood should feel comfortable in relation to the weight of the stone. Finally, lash the stone to the handle.

There are three techniques for lashing the stone to the handle: split handle, forked branch, and wrapped handle. The technique you use will depend on the type of handle you choose.

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Sling Club
A sling club is another type of weighted club. A weight hangs 8 to 10 centimeters from the handle by a strong, flexible lashing. This type of club both extends the user's reach and multiplies the force of the blow.  

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EDGED WEAPONS
Knives, spear blades, and arrow points fall under the category of edged weapons. The following paragraphs will discuss the making of such weapons.

Knives
A knife has three basic functions. It can puncture, slash or chop, and cut. A knife is also an invaluable tool used to construct other survival items. You may find yourself without a knife or you may need another type knife or a spear. To improvise you can use stone, bone, wood, or metal to make a knife or spear blade.

Stone
To make a stone knife, you will need a sharp-edged piece of stone, a chipping tool, and a flaking tool. A chipping tool is a light, blunt-edged tool used to break off small pieces of stone. A flaking tool is a pointed tool used to break off thin, flattened pieces of stone. You can make a chipping tool from wood, bone, or metal, and a flaking tool from bone, antler tines, or soft iron.  

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Start making the knife by roughing out the desired shape on your sharp piece of stone, using the chipping tool. Try to make the knife fairly thin. Then, using the flaking tool, press it against the edges. This action will cause flakes to come off the opposite side of the edge, leaving a razor sharp edge. Use the flaking tool along the entire length of the edge you need to sharpen. Eventually, you will have a very sharp cutting edge that you can use as a knife.

Lash the blade to some type of hilt.
Note: Stone will make an excellent puncturing tool and a good chopping tool but will not hold a fine edge. Some stones such as chert or flint can have very fine edges.

Bone
You can also use bone as an effective field-expedient edged weapon. First, you will need to select a suitable bone. The larger bones, such as the leg bone of a deer or another medium-sized animal, are best. Lay the bone upon another hard object. Shatter the bone by hitting it with a heavy object, such as a rock. From the pieces, select a suitable pointed splinter. You can further shape and sharpen this splinter by rubbing it on a rough- surfaced rock. If the piece is too small to handle, you can still use it by adding a handle to it. Select a suitable piece of hardwood for a handle and lash the bone splinter securely to it.

Note: Use the bone knife only to puncture. It will not hold an edge and it may flake or break if used differently.

Wood
You can make field-expedient edged weapons from wood. Use these only to puncture. Bamboo is the only wood that will hold a suitable edge. To make a knife using wood, first select a straight-grained piece of hardwood that is about 30 centimeters long and 2.5 centimeters in diameter. Fashion the blade about 15 centimeters long. Shave it down to a point. Use only the straight-grained portions of the wood. Do not use the core or pith, as it would make a weak point.

Harden the point by a process known as fire hardening. If a fire is possible, dry the blade portion over the fire slowly until lightly charred. The drier the wood, the harder the point. After lightly charring the blade portion, sharpen it on a coarse stone. If using bamboo and after fashioning the blade, remove any other wood to make the blade thinner from the inside portion of the bamboo. Removal is done this way because bamboo's hardest part is its outer layer. Keep as much of this layer as possible to ensure the hardest blade possible. When charring bamboo over a fire, char only the inside wood; do not char the outside.

Metal
Metal is the best material to make field-expedient edged weapons. Metal, when properly designed, can fulfill a knife's three uses--puncture, slice or chop, and cut. First, select a suitable piece of metal, one that most resembles the desired end product. Depending on the size and original shape, you can obtain a point and cutting edge by rubbing the metal on a rough-surfaced stone. If the metal is soft enough, you can hammer out one edge while the metal is cold. Use a suitable flat, hard surface as an anvil and a smaller, harder object of stone or metal as a hammer to hammer out the edge. Make a knife handle from wood, bone, or other material that will protect your hand.

Other Materials
You can use other materials to produce edged weapons. Glass is a good alternative to an edged weapon or tool, if no other material is available. Obtain a suitable piece in the same manner as described for bone. Glass has a natural edge but is less durable for heavy work. You can also sharpen plastic--if it is thick enough or hard enough--into a durable point for puncturing.

Spear Blades
To make spears, use the same procedures to make the blade that you used to make a knife blade. Then select a shaft (a straight sapling) 1.2 to 1.5 meters long. The length should allow you to handle the spear easily and effectively. Attach the spear blade to the shaft using lashing. The preferred method is to split the handle, insert the blade, then wrap or lash it tightly. You can use other materials without adding a blade. Select a 1.2-to 1.5- meter long straight hardwood shaft and shave one end to a point. If possible, fire harden the point. Bamboo also makes an excellent spear. Select a piece 1.2 to 1.5 meters long. Starting 8 to 10 centimeters back from the end used as the point, shave down the end at a 45-degree angle. Remember, to sharpen the edges, shave only the inner portion.   

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Arrow Points
To make an arrow point, use the same procedures for making a stone knife blade. Chert, flint, and shell-type stones are best for arrow points. You can fashion bone like stone--by flaking. You can make an efficient arrow point using broken glass.

OTHER EXPEDIENT WEAPONS
You can make other field-expedient weapons such as the throwing stick, archery equipment, and the bola.

Throwing Stick
The throwing stick, commonly known as the rabbit stick, is very effective against small game (squirrels, chipmunks, and rabbits). The rabbit stick itself is a blunt stick, naturally curved at about a 45-degree angle. Select a stick with the desired angle from heavy hardwood such as oak. Shave off two opposite sides so that the stick is flat like a

boomerang. You must practice the throwing technique for accuracy and speed. First, align the target by extending the non-throwing arm in line with the mid to lower section of the target. Slowly and repeatedly raise the throwing arm up and back until the throwing stick crosses the back at about a 45-degree angle or is in line with the non-throwing hip. Bring the throwing arm forward until it is just slightly above and parallel to the non-throwing arm. This will be the throwing stick's release point. Practice slowly and repeatedly to attain accuracy.   

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Archery Equipment
You can make a bow and arrow from materials available in your survival area.To make a bow, use the procedure described under in our post Killing Devices For Hunting.

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While it may be relatively simple to make a bow and arrow, it is not easy to use one. You must practice using it a long time to be reasonably sure that you will hit your target. Also, a field-expedient bow will not last very long before you have to make a new one. For the time and effort involved, you may well decide to use another type of field-expedient weapon.  

Bola
The bola is another field-expedient weapon that is easy to make (Figure 12-7). It is especially effective for capturing running game or low-flying fowl in a flock. To use the bola, hold it by the center knot and twirl it above your head. Release the knot so that the bola flies toward your target. When you release the bola, the weighted cords will separate. These cords will wrap around and immobilize the fowl or animal that you hit.   

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Home Survival During Civil Unrest

12/19/2014

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By Jesse Jones

When the world starts feeling uneasy, and civil unrest is right on the brink, there will be many people who are unprepared for what's about to happen. With the economy in a weakened state, there are many nations approaching the edge of civil unrest, and knowing how to keep your home safe during civil unrest can safe your life, and your family.

Home Survival During Civil Unrest 

Most people will choose to stay in their homes during times of civil unrest. 
This is understandable as people are more comfortable in areas they feel are familiar. 


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The problems comes with keeping others out of your house when they are in need of supplies that you may have.

Fortifying Your Home 

It's vital that you fortify your house as soon as you are aware of a potential problem. Waiting until after someone has broken in for the first time can be very costly, and it might be too late to gather supplies before it gets worse.

Having pre-cut materials on hand before a problem arises is your best bet. You should have sheets of plywood prepared to place on the inside of your windows. Yes, it's best to screw these boards in from the inside of your house. This will prevent outsiders from removing the boards easily, and allows you to remove them if needed.

Another important area to prepare for are outside facing doors. Most household doors aren't designed to take high amounts of abuse. You can sturdy a door with a few easy items. As most man doors open to the inside, having some 2x4 boards can be handy. You can lay a chunk on its side, and screw it to the floor against the door, preventing the door from being opened.

Although this is a good temporary means of blocking a door, it's not going to stop someone who has decided to fight to enter your household. Using 2x4's again, you can cut to length 3 boards that when set across the door, will reach about 3-4 inches over your trim. Put on board on its side in front of the door, securely screwing it to the floor. Place a second at the top of your door where it goes across your door, and overlaps on either side. Screwing the board to the door directly, into the trim package, and into the doors frame studs. Do the same with your third board, but put this one just above your deadbolt.

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Secondary Defenses 

Ideally, you will have set up enough defenses and deterrent's to ward of any person looking to enter your home for supplies. Unfortunately, there is always the chance that someone figures out a way inside. Having a secondary plan for intruders is also very important. Have a code word for your family that signals they need to get to a pre-set safe room, and hunker down. Having firearm's, bladed, or blunt weapon's available to deal with intruders is also recommended. We suggest you also become fluent in the use of the weapons you choose to keep around. 


When the SHTF ruthless predators will roam about seeking their next target. And sooner or later, they’re gonna find you too…

Last Resort 

Although we do not want to easily hand over our shelter and supplies, in some cases a tactical retreat is all you can do to save your and your family's life. Have a plan setup with your family on where to go if you get split up during the course of escaping your property. Once you have escaped safely, you can reassess the situation and decide if trying to retake your house is the best tactical decision.

In most cases, poorly trained invaders will not suspect a retreat and then a counter attack. Attackers tend to focus on a single objective once the position has been taken. Unless they took the position for long term holding, they will be focusing on gathering your supplies and leaving. Catching them off guard as they scrounge your supplies will give you a huge advantage. That, and you know the terrain better than them hopefully. Use it to your advantage.

Keeping your family safe is important. Always have plans for as many scenarios as you can, making sure your children understand the basic components of each. Don't scare your children with these plans, but rather make the planning and execution a game. The faster and more accurately they execute these plans, the bigger their reward.

As always, Thank you for stopping by!

P.S. If you want to learn more about how to protect your home and your family during civil unrest, here's a simple, yet little known method that teaches how to implement these unusual home defense strategies and also warns about exactly why conventional preparedness can be deadly. Click Here

About the author
Jesse Jones has been writing for over 8 years for many news outlets and online media sources. He is an avid survivalist and prepper who can be found writing articles on his personal survival blog www.365preppers.com go check him out!

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US Marine shows how to survive in an urban environment

12/16/2014

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Water Sourcing: Finding Water Outdoors

12/12/2014

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By Survival Ready Blog Team


Finding water is at the top of your priorities in any survival situation, ranking well above food. The reason is simple, you can survival far longer without food than without water. Without water, there’s a high chance of dying in just a few days.

The regular intake of water essential to life is about 2 to 3 liters a day. This is the minimum required to keep your water balance and prevent dehydration. In a survival situation, you should always filter and purify. In this post we’ll cover different ways to source and procure water. We’ll cover filtering and purification methods and gear in a separate post.

Here are a few method to find water:

Dew Collector

Dew collectors can be improvised from sheets of plastic, but commercial version are far more efficient. Condensation gathers on the sides of the collector, eventually running down into the central reservoir. Dew collectors are especially useful as the fluids collected can be safely drunk without the need of filtration or purification.

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Harvesting Dew

 In areas with moderate to heavy dew, dew can be collected by tying rags or tuffs of fine grass around your ankles. While walking through dewy grass before sunrise, the rags or grass will saturate and can be rung out into a container. The rags or grass can be replaced and the process is repeated.

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Rain Collector

If you are in an area where rainfall is scarce, you want to maximize the amount of water you collect every time it does rain. A simple tarp rain collector, like the one shown in the image below, will channel large volumes of rainwater down into a bucket or container. This will type of collector will obviously need to be constructed in advance of the rain. Looks for signs of gathering clouds and pick and area with minimal obstructions to maximize the amount of rainwater collected.

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Solar Still

Solar stills are designed to supplement water reserves. Contrary to belief, they will not provide enough water to meet the daily requirement for water.

Below-Ground Solar Still. Materials consist of a digging stick, clear plastic sheet, container, rock, and a drinking tube. Selecting a site where you believe the soil will contain. The soil should be easy to dig, and will be exposed to sunlight. 
See our post solar still construction for more details.
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Transpiration Bags. 

The mechanism a transpiration bag employs to source/collect water is the same as the solar still. That is why they are also known as “Above-Ground Solar Stills”.  This device allows the survivor to make water from vegetation.  To make the aboveground solar still, locate a sunny slope on which to place the still, a clear plastic bag, green leafy vegetation, and a small rock. See our post solar still construction for more details.

Digging for water

Digging down into damp earth can often lead to significant water deposits. Create a hole several feet deep and about 1 ft wide and allow water to seep in through the earth, collecting in the hole. ALWAYS filter ad purify such fluids before you drink them. In flat agricultural land, look for irrigation ditches between fields

Melting Snow & Ice 

The environment may sometimes provide you with opportunities to acquire water. In a cold water can generally be located in the following:

Snow. Snow can be melted for potable water. Melting snow will result in a higher fuel usage. Uncontaminated snow does not need to be disinfected.

Ice. Ice can be melted for potable water. Melting ice is preferable to melting snow due to the higher concentration of water per volume.  However, since ice is frozen water it needs to be disinfected.

Sea Ice. In time, sea ice loses its salinity. You can identify this ice by its rounded corners and bluish color. Gray ice has not yet lost its salt content.

Here are some general considerations when using snow and ice for water.

(1) Never melt snow or ice inside your mouth. This removes body heat and increases the chance of cold weather injuries.
(2) When on the move, use body heat to melt snow. Place snow or ice in a water bag and place the bag between your layers of clothing, not directly on the skin.
(3) Do not waste fuel to melt snow or ice when drinkable water (i.e., stream) is available.
(4) If melting snow in a container by a fire, utilize a hot rock to speed up the process and conserving fuel.

With very few exceptions, like rainwater or water immediately collected after water vapor condensation, most water sources that are procured in a survival situation should be treated before it is safe to drink. We will discuss the topics of water treatment, filtering and purifying in a separate post.
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Solar Still Construction

12/12/2014

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Solar stills are designed to supplement water reserves. Contrary to belief, they will not provide enough water to meet the daily requirement for water.

Below-Ground Solar Still. Materials consist of a digging stick, clear plastic sheet, container, rock, and a drinking tube.

(1) Construction.

(a) Select a site where you believe the soil will contain moisture (such as a dry streambed or a low spot where rainwater has collected). The soil should be easy to dig, and will be exposed to sunlight.
(b) Dig a bowl-shaped hole about 1 meter across and 24 inches deep.
(c) Dig a sump in the center of the hole. The sump depth and perimeter will depend on the size of the container you have to place in it. The bottom of the sump should allow the container to stand upright.
(d) Anchor the tubing to the container's bottom by forming a loose overhand knot in the tubing.  Extend the unanchored end of the tubing up, over, and beyond the lip of the hole.
(e) Place the plastic sheet over the hole, covering its edges with soil to hold in place. Place a rock in the center of the plastic sheet.
(f) Lower the plastic sheet into the hole until it is about 18 inches below ground level. Make sure the cone's apex is directly over the container. Ensure the plastic does not touch the sides of the hole because the earth will absorb the moisture.
(g) Put more soil on the edges of the plastic to hold it securely and prevent the loss of moisture.
(h) Plug the tube when not in use so that moisture will not evaporate.
(i) Plants can be placed in the hole as a moisture source. If so, dig out additional soil from the sides.
(j) If polluted water is the only moisture source, dig a small trough outside the hole about 10 inches from the still's lip. Dig the trough about 10 inches deep and 3 inches wide. Pour the polluted water in the trough. Ensure you do not spill any polluted water around the rim of the hole where the plastic touches the soil. The trough holds the polluted water and the soil filters it as the still draws it. This process works well when the only water source is salt water.



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Transpiration Bags. The mechanism a transpiration bag employs to source/collect water is the same as the solar still. That is why they are also known as “Above-Ground Solar Stills”.  This device allows the survivor to make water from vegetation.  To make the above ground solar still, locate a sunny slope on which to place the still, a clear plastic bag, green leafy vegetation, and a small rock.

(1) Construction.

(a) Fill the bag with air by turning the opening into the breeze or by "scooping" air into the bag.
(b) Fill the bag half to three-quarters full of green leafy vegetation.  Be sure to remove all hard sticks or sharp spines that might puncture the bag.
CAUTION Do not use poisonous vegetation. It will provide poisonous liquid.
(c) Place a small rock or similar item in the bag.
(d) Close the bag and tie the mouth securely as close to the end of the bag as possible to keep the maximum amount of air space. If you have a small piece of tubing, small straw, or hollow reed, insert one end in the mouth of the bag before tying it securely. Tie off or plug the tubing so that air will not escape. This tubing will allow you to drain out condensed water without untying the bag.
(e) Place the bag, mouth downhill, on a slope in full sunlight. Position the mouth of the bag slightly higher than the low point in the bag. The bag can also be wrapped around leaves still on a tree as show in the video below
(f) Settle the bag in place so that the rock works itself into the low point in the bag.
(g) To get the condensed water from the still, loosen the tie and tip the bag so that the collected water will drain out. Retie the mouth and reposition the still to allow further condensation.
(h) Change vegetation in the bag after extracting most of the water from it.
(i) Using 1 gallon zip-loc bag instead of trash bags is a more efficient means of construction.

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3 Critical Elements on Setting up Your Survival Camp

12/8/2014

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By Randy A.

If you are planning on taking to the woods for your bug out, or even just spending time there brushing up on skills, picking the right spot for your stay is important.

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Shelter

Your shelter should be located out of the wind. Always look for loose rocks or dead trees/limbs that could fall on your shelter.

The shelter itself should be made so it is warm and comfortable. If you can manage it have the entrance facing downwind so that you can build your fire in front and catch the heat in your shelter.

Learn to make a shelter that does the best in your local region. To find the best options study how the Native Americans in your area lived. They used native materials and built shelters that fit what they needed to survive in any given area.


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Water

Water is your second priority after shelter. Locate your shelter close to a potable water source. But not too close, you will need to take into account possible flooding.

Another reason I like to be a little ways away from water is the noise factor. Setting up camp right next to even a small stream will mask many sounds with running water.


Food

Set your camp in an area that can provide you with food in the long term. This can mean places to hunt, fish, trap, and gather wild edibles. 

A string of small traps can be set all around your camp to catch small game. You can set several hundred small deadfalls to catch rodents and possibly larger traps to catch larger game.

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About the author
Randy Augsburger lives and writes from an old farm that has been in his family since 1866. Born in northwest Ohio, Randy grew up in a small town in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. He draws on his experiences of hunting, fishing, trapping and prospecting for his writing. Randy is also an ordained Southern Baptist preacher.

You find his writing blog at http://randyswrite.blogspot.com/
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Keep Supplies Safe During a Power Outage

11/21/2014

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Winter is here, and for large number of people in the country that means single digit temperatures, snow storms and a lot of shoveling snow. With the snow and low temperatures it causes power lines to bear more weight than usual and increases probability of power outages. Being prepared before the power goes out is one f those basic things everyone should do. Basic things, like locating flashlights and matches somewhere where they are readily available and making sure they are in working condition, are a must do if you live in an area exposed to that kind of weather in the winter. Below is an article that lays out several tips on how to prepare for and keep your supplies safe during a power outage. Click here to read full post…
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“Of course, the best time to prepare for a disaster is before it strikes – but, when you find yourself facing any sort of emergency before you’ve had time to prepare, you’ll want to do everything you can to protect your precious supplies – especially food and water. Keep these tips in mind (or print them out and keep them on hand) in case you ever find yourself caught off guard. 


Of course, the biggest concern is food spoilage. You can minimize the amount of spoilage experienced by:

1. Keep the doors to your freezer and refrigerator closed, and food will stay cold for about four hours.
2. Keep a thermometer in the refrigerator to monitor temperatures. Food that reaches 40 degrees or higher can’t be refrozen and should be disposed of.

In addition to these tips, be sure to keep a minimum of three days of non-perishable food items on hand that don’t require running water or heating for consumption.

Keeping Water Safe During a Power Outage
In some areas, water may stop flowing to your home if the power is out. When this happens, you’ll have no choice but to rely on personal water supplies or water purification devices. It’s best to keep a supply of water on hand.

Not including washing, and cleaning, the average person needs at least one gallon of water per day to remain properly hydrated. The more water you can store, the better off you’ll be – but be sure to keep at least five gallons on hand for each adult and child in your household.

Keeping Other Survival Supplies Safe During a Power Outage
While most of your supplies are unlikely to suffer damage during a power supply, there’s always a chance that desperate neighbors come to your home for help. Protect yourself and your family by keeping the details of your supplies to a minimum. Your neighbors are far less likely to try and steal what they don’t know you have.”


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