Categorie: Survival Gear

4 Tools to Cut and Chop Wood for Survival

8/21/2017

It is my assumption that you have been listening to the news. What do you make of the relationship between North Korea and the West? As a survivalist, am always attentive to such news and those of natural disasters both of which can happen without warning. When it happens, I want to be among the survivors.

As a survivor, one of the most important things is the ability to cut and chop wood. The wood is the primary source of fuel to keep you warm, cook our food and boil water. Not any tool can achieve this. You need tools that can help you cut and chop wood easily and conveniently for survival. Here are brief discussions of my favorite 4 tools to cut and chop wood for survival.

Image via-https://pixabay.com/en/axe-wood-hack-cases-wood-chop-1748305/

1. Spitting Maul
A splitting maul is one of the most efficient tools to cut and chop wood for survival. A splitting maul is a heavy, long-handle axe with a triangular or wedge-shaped head for splitting wood along its grains. This tool is very good in chopping wood, especially that which is intended for making firewood outdoors. It is the best survival tool to choose if you want an easy way to chop firewood. You can choose the best splitting maul from different brands and models currently in the market.

2. An Axe
Another vital survival tool for cutting and chopping wood is an axe. This tool has been in use for hundreds of years and it still remains as relevant as it was then. An axe is the premium tool for shaping, cutting and splitting wood. This highly versatile tool can and has been used as a defensive or combat weapon. There are many forms of axes but the most common form consists of a head and a handle called a helve. You can choose from a variety of brands and models depending on your preferences.

3. Survival Knife
All survivors know the importance of carrying a knife along in their survival kit. It is one of the most valuable tools to cut and chop wood for survival. Having it alongside a splitting maul and an axe can guarantee you a steady supply of wood for fuel. Survival knives come in many different styles, designs, and sizes. Larger knives may not be as portable as the small models but they feature long blades (some times up to 8 inches) that are strong enough to chop small pieces of wood for lighting fires.

4. A saw
A saw is extremely important survival implements. It is perhaps the best-suited tool for cutting wood. These tools come in all designs, shapes, and sizes. A good choice would be a folding saw, which offers the convenience of portability and sturdiness for fairly heavy use. You can store them easily yet they still have the power to cut through logs quite large.

A good alternative would be a takedown bucksaw. This saw type has many advantages including the fact that you can make one from materials lying in your vicinity. You can fix it on your own. Furthermore, the saw is simple to use and stows away easily.

Conclusion
If you want to be a complete survivor, one that can weather the storm and live through the ordeal then you can trust these 4 tools to cut and chop wood for survival to help you through the entire period. I have been a survivor for quite long and these tools have proved invaluable at all times. You too will most likely love them.

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The Best Gun for Self Defense

5/26/2017

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by Douglas Brooks

Many people within modern American society no longer feel safe and secure out in public and within their homes. The issue of self- defense is very important for many individuals especially when it comes to protecting the lives of their loved ones and their possessions.

Choosing the right type of gun for the purpose of self-defense can be a difficult thing for people to do, especially when they’re unfamiliar with the use of firearms. However, there are certain types of weapons which are best suited for close combat fighting and personal protection.

Revolvers for Self Defense

Many experts rate revolvers at the top of the list for self and home defense. In the past, police forces used them as their standard issue firearm for their officers. Unfortunately, this all changed during the 1990s when criminals started to use guns that were deadlier than the revolver. The police force had to upgrade their firearms in order to overcome this problem. They decided to use semi-automatic weapons which were more powerful and faster than the revolvers that they previously carried.

Even though revolvers are no longer standard weapons of choice for many law enforcement personnel, there are a few police departments that still continue to issue these weapons to their officers. Revolvers are small, fairly lightweight and they are easy to use when compared to a semi-automatic gun. These types of weapons typically have 2 ½ to 5 inch barrels that can be hidden with relative ease and it takes very little skill to properly use this weapon.

Revolvers do not have to be frequently cleaned in order to work properly. Gun experts claim that revolvers such as the .38 are powerful enough to stop intruders and attackers but not so powerful that they’re hard to shoot and control.

Smaller revolvers are not designed to cause an excessive amount of damage to a person’s body or to destroy property. A larger revolver such as the .357 has a little more kick to it and it is probably a good idea for a person to get some training before using this weapon.

Revolvers typically have 2 ½ to 5 inch barrels which means that they good for close combat situations. People should also avoid revolvers with unexposed hammers since they could possibly get caught in clothing or misfire. The types of revolvers which most weapons experts suggest for personal defense are .38 and .357.

Semi-Automatic Weapons for Self Defense

Semi-automatic pistols are another class of guns that is commonly used for the purpose of self-defense. These weapons are more powerful than most revolvers and they are able to hold more rounds. People can reload these weapons rather quickly since they use clips.

The cons of using this weapon includes consistent training, knowing how to clean the weapon, knowing how to load and reload clips, understanding how to use the safety and how to properly work the weapon. Semi-automatic pistols can also be easily concealed.

Firearms experts claim that this class of handgun should be used by individuals who have experience with shooting weapons. Semi-automatics are also prone to malfunction when compared to revolvers. Glocks are some of the most common types of semi-automatic handguns that are used for the purpose of self-defense.

Shot Guns Good for Home Defense

12 gauge and pump action shot guns are also considered excellent choices for self-defense especially within the home. These types of weapons do not require a lot of training and they are fairly easy to operate. They are designed for up close combat situations since they are fairly easy to maneuver.
The barrels of these shot guns are fairly long which is about 18 inches and this will allow a person to easily wield the weapon in close combat situations. Experts claim that the recoil on these guns is not that powerful if a person uses lower caliber shells. Shot guns shoot their rounds in a wide pattern which means they are good for stopping multiple attackers who are positioned within a close formation.

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Rifles

Rifles are considered one of the worst weapons to use for the purpose of self-defense. Rifles can stop an intruder or assailant from causing harm but this class of gun can be hard to operate and maneuver in close combat situations. Rifles with a scope are good for medium to long range shooting and a person would have to be skilled at using a particular kind of rifle in an emergency situation where close quarter combat takes place. Rifles are also harder to conceal and to reload.
Regardless of the type of weapon that a person uses for the purpose of self-defense they should know how to properly use their gun and make sure that their firearms are cleaned and well maintained. It is also highly advisable for individual to know about the gun and self-defense laws within their local communities.

This post is written by Douglas Brooks. He is the founder of ProReviewly.com . He was enthusiastic about hunting from the first shot. He is also Rifle optic guru.

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Survival Knife Mistakes

12/11/2016

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By Robert Blaze

Confession: I love my survival knife. We all love these simple tools that have hundreds of uses. You may not believe you can make mistakes with them, yet they exist, and they can force you to increase your survival budget to buy a new knife.

Unless you’re a critical survival situation, you have no reason to make some of the mistakes below. IN theory, your survival knife should last a lifetime.

Without further ado, let’s see what the biggest survival mistakes you can make with your knife are.

Cleaning and Sharpening

Provided you actually use your knife (and you most definitely should), you also need to make sure you keep it in shape. Sharpening it and oiling it are two of the most important things you must do to maintain it. The key to sharpening your knife is to do it at the right angle.
Now, cleaning it should be done every time you use it, sharpening should be done less often. For example, you can do it when you check your survival stockpile and gear to make sure your food hasn’t spoiled and that all your tools and gear still work.
The simplest way to sharpen a knife is using a whetstone. It’s cheap and you can find plenty of youtubes showing you how to do it. Two places you shouldn’t forget is to clean the handle and the portion where the handle meets the blade.

Messing with the Tip of the Blade

That’s exactly what I did when I tried to open a bottle. The knife still works, sure, but I learned my lesson.

Another way you can damage it is to split wood. That’s exactly what a friend of mine did last time we went to the woods. He had this new bushcraft knife that was advertised it can do this. Or maybe he saw it on youtube, I can’t remember.

Still, just because you can do it, that doesn’t mean you should. A good knife is expensive, why would you want to abuse it? Sure, it’s useful to learn how to use it to split wood should you need to do it in a survival situation, but it can’t turn into a habit.

By the way, in case you want to fix a broken tip, here’s a video showing you how to do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQDX7gVR0qM

Using it on the wrong surface?

If that surface is glass, stone or the palm of your hand, you may want to reconsider. The first two will damage your knife, the 3rd one will damage you.

Not Knowing How to Use It

I’ve used knives all my life, what do you mean I don’t know how to use it?
Well, there are best practices for most things, including knives. Plus, certain survival situations require that you’re extra careful with it. Attaching it to a pole and using it as a spear for fishing, for instance, may sound like a fun thing to try, but I wouldn’t do it unless I really really had to. Not with my main knife, at least. Don’t use it to open cans or bottles, either.
Furthermore, please be advised of what your knife can and cannot do. Many knives are advertised as survival knives but not all of them are able to cut certain things or split logs.

Using it to Start Fires

Unless your knife has a built-in fire-starter, you should definitely not use it like that. Not unless you’re in a survival situation and don’t have a choice, of course. The thing is, you can damage the blade when you use it with a ferro rod. So please don’t.

Not Choosing the Right One

Perhaps I should have started with this, but you need to know what you need before you spend your money on it. This means having basic preparedness knowledge and knowing the situations in which you intend to use it.
For example, if you’re an urban prepper, you might not need a large bushcraft knife. Your bug out bag is probably smaller too, so a smaller one such as those made by Mora will do.
Now, even if you live in the city, you still can’t rely on a folding knife. Sure having one is great but you cannot ever consider it as being a survival knife. It’s much too small for that and you won’t be able to properly do many of the tasks you may need. They will generally take longer and you’ll surely ruin it in the process.
So figure out whether you’ll be bugging in or out, figure out whether you want a standard BOB or an inch bag, all the activities you’ll do in the wilderness and you’re well on your way to finding the right knife for you.

Not Having a Back-up Knife

Contrary to what I’ve been saying throughout the article, the reason you might need a second knife is because you might, in fat, use it in ways in which it’s not intended. You want to protect your main (and more expensive) blade, so having a second blade could prove useful for things like spearfishing, splitting wood and what not.

Final Word

Ok, so these are the main mistakes you can make. Have you made mistakes with your survival knife that aren’t in the list (probably related to misuse)? Please share below.

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Top 5 Mistakes When Selecting a Firearm for Hunting

2/11/2016

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By Larry Ellis

Just like any other activity or practice, hunting requires a solid background based on thorough research in the field. No matter if you are interested in purchasing your first firearm or you want to know how you can take up hunting, you need to do your homework and build your knowledge base.

Before you even begin to consider purchasing a firearm for this purpose, it is fundamental to gather as much information as possible about hunting beforehand. It is highly recommended that you attend an education or safety course for hunting so you can learn the basics about how to stay safe and how to get started with this activity. In addition to this, future hunters are encouraged to learn from an experienced hunter; this is usually regarded as being an apprentice. After you learn the basics, you can proceed with purchasing your firearm for hunting.

If this is the very first firearm you will purchase, however, you need to be aware of several aspects related to the buying process. Selecting a reliable, best value firearm requires background information so you can make the right investment. Amateur hunters tend to make selecting and buying mistakes due to lack of knowledge and this can not only end up in poor shopping decisions, but also in potential safety issues. In this regard, this article aims to present the five most common mistakes when selecting a firearm for hunting.

1. Caliber

By far, one of the most frequent mistakes that beginners make when getting their first firearm is choosing the wrong caliber for hunting. Even though there is not an ideal caliber for hunting in general or for a specific animal, there is a range that you should take into consideration. This means that you need to know the difference between a .17 HMR and a 577 Nitro Exp, as well as when and how to use them. An infographic created by Hunter Ed supports the fact that you should choose the right caliber depending on the animals you will hunt:

Varmint hunting: .22 Mag, .22 Long or .17 HMR are all suitable for hunting small animals.
Deer Hunting: you can look into .22-250, .223 or .243 Win for hunting deer.
Big Game: for hunting bears or elk, choose .338, .300 Win Mag or 7mm Rem Mag.

2. Ammunition

Another significant aspect you need to remember when selecting a firearm for hunting is your choice of ammunition. First of all, not all ammunition works for all types of firearms, so you will need to ask what ammunition will be suitable for the gun you are going to buy. Choosing the proper type of ammunition has critical safety aspects involved; if you select the wrong kind you will not only be wasting money on ammunition you can’t use, but you will also be putting yourself and the ones around you in danger. Always double check with the company you plan on buying your firearm from to see if the ammunition you get on the side fits and works for your choice.

3. Scope

Most beginner hunters get excited when buying their first rifle and tend to forget about an essential component: the scope. You could spend a considerable amount on your rifle, not get the right scope and ruin your hunting experience from the beginning. Optics are just as important as the firearm you choose and also a basic part of the firearm selection process that many tend to overlook. The best way to avoid this mistake is to organize your budget with both the firearm and the scope in mind in advance.

4. Investment

Speaking of budget, this leads us to yet another common mistake when buying hunting firearms. Those who lack hunting experience might end up purchasing a firearm that is way over their budget. This results in not having enough money left for accessories (such as the scope we were speaking about earlier) or for carrying out the practice afterwards. You should always weigh your options and search through various sources before ordering or buying your hunting firearm from a store. If you decide to purchase your hunting firearm online, it is recommended that you search for a particular model through at least three sources to see where you can get the best deal.

5. Complexity

Last but not least, complexity tends to be a trending mistake among amateur hunters. This mistake can equally go two ways; a hunter can either purchase a firearm that is too complex for his or her level of training and knowledge at that moment, or they can get a gun that is too basic and won’t meet their needs. Be aware of your level as a hunter and choose the complexity of your firearm accordingly.

Image via www.chuckhawks.com

Image via http://davidshoebridge.org.au

About the Author

Larry Ellis is a firearm and hunting enthusiast based in Colorado Springs, Colorado. He specializes in deer hunting and, during off season, contributes guidelines and opinion pieces to various hunting blogs, as well as professional firearm websites such as Riflescopecenter.

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Top 4 Reasons to Get a Bushcraft Knife

1/28/2016

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By John West

Bushcraft knives are becoming more popular as of late, and for good reason. High quality bushcraft knives are functional blades that make a great addition to anyone’s knife armory. That being said, many people can be unsure about buying one. They wonder what makes a Bushcraft knife any different from other types of knives. If you aren’t sure about buying a Bushcraft knife, here are the four top reasons for buying a Bushcraft knife.

Image via knifeista.com

Functionality

The 1st reason is functionality. Bushcraft knives are designed to be extremely functional. They tend to be relatively small, fixed blade knives. They usually have only one edge that will hold its edge for a long while. These features make the blade highly functional. It is designed to fit in your hand and is comfortable to use. It can be used for heavy work like cutting up wood for a fire or skinning an animal. It can also be used for light work such as whittling or food prep.
They also often prove to be useful in more urban environments. You will often need a knife for opening boxes or cutting tape in the office, and you will feel safer in dangerous neighborhoods with a Bushcraft knife strapped to your belt. Above all, the knife will be durable, designed to take the strain of being used in any environment, which makes it highly reliable. If you are looking for a functional blade to handle both simple and complex tasks, then look no farther than a Bushcraft knife.

Simplicity

The second great feature of a bushcraft knife is its simplicity. There is rarely anything fancy about a bushcraft knife. A true Bushcraft knife is simply a sharp and effective blade with a comfortable handle. It won’t have annoying detachable parts in its handle or fancy engravings on the blade. A Bushcraft knife is a tool, not something to hang on your wall. It is meant to be used and its simple design makes it perfect for doing just that (If simplicity isn’t your style, click here to learn about other kinds of survival knives).

Survival

While a Bushcraft knife is a highly functional knife that can be used in a variety of environments, it was designed to be the perfect tool for survival. After all, Bushcraft is the art of survival. It is a name for the skills that will allow you to survive away from the comforts of home, such as fire craft, hunting, tracking, trapping, woodcarving, shelter making, and a variety of other skills. At the heart of each of these skills is the Bushcraft knife.

Every feature of the Bushcraft knife makes it perfect for Bushcraft. Its size and simplicity prevent it from being too heavy or awkward to carry in the wild. The high durability of its fixed blade will prevent it from malfunctioning in the wild. And most importantly, the blade holds a sharp edge for a long time, so you can count on it when you need it the most. If you are headed out into the wilderness anytime soon, you will want to bring a Bushcraft knife with you.

Cost

Perhaps the most important consideration when buying a new knife is its cost. Well, you are in luck when it comes to Bushcraft knives. Although a Bushcraft knife can be over a hundred dollars, you do not need to spend that much money. A good Bushcraft knife can be as inexpensive as $14.99! For instance, the Morakniv Companion Knife has 1700 5-star reviews on amazon, and it is under $15. This is nearly half of what you would pay for a quality survival knife. As far as price goes, a Bushcraft knife is not a bad purchase in the slightest.

So what do you think? Are you going to buy a Bushcraft knife? If not, why? Let us know in the comments below.

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How To Make a Bugout Survival Bracelet

4/17/2015

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Intro: Bug Out Survival Bracelet A standard paracord bracelet can be useful in regards to the cordage it provides while being an every day carry(wear). Let's face it though, when left stranded on the road during an EMP, lost in the woods from a weekend hike, or up the creek with out a paddle; you're gonna need more than some 550lb cord.

Craft your own all-purpose survival bracelet to better prepare you for any adventure or worst case scenario. It is an outfitted strap that comes equipped with a load out of gear allowing you to start a fire, repair your tent, purify water, signal for help, waterproof a poncho, replace a shoelace, fish, carve an arrow/fashions bow, set a snare trap, tighten a lose screw, or navigate to safety. It's a lightweight Bug Out Bag for your wrist. All the items can be carefully placed into the center core under the weave pattern making it discreet and ready for the apocalypse.

Items Needed:
1. Knowledge of how to make a standard cobra paracord bracelet.
2. Lighter, paracord, duct tape.
3. Optional: Pliers & Straws
4. Buckle & Survival Gear to add to bracelet.
For more info visit Facebook or find individual items and bracelets for sale at our Etsy Shop.

Step 1: Select your survival items Pick survival tools that would fit what you are prepping for and lay out your choices neatly on your workspace. Here are examples and estimated prices for each: all are available from me or by browsing the internet.

SURVIVAL ITEM CATEGORIES: Cutting, Fire, Aid/Repair, Food/Water, Navigation/Signalling, Tools/Tactical, Support

---CUTTING:
(7)   $15- Mini Curved Surgical Carving Blade #12 X-Acto size (Carbon Steel - Pointed Tip - Lanyard Hole) Use as arrow tip, attach to wood handle yo use as knife, whittlewood as a morale booster, carve tools, cut rope, fillet fish, etc.
(8)   *$25- Zirconia Ceramic Razor Blade and Fire Striker w/ Sheath (Wear Resistant - Non-Dulling Cutting Edge - Covert - Non Metallic)Conceal. Strike against flint tocreate sparks, cutting blade for endless uses, razor sharp for shaving or skinning, sheath between a tip-split stick to use as defensive jabbing knife, etc.
(9)   *$7- 1ft Kevlar Utility Thread (K.U.T.) Sawing Cord and Snare Wire (200lb tested - UV/Friction Resistant) Saw branches/zipties/ropes- Fashion a bow saw, catch wildgame using as a snare wire, make a trip line, use as garrote weapon. Adopted by US Army SERE specialists and NAVY Seals.
(10) $3 per/ additional 1 foot. TIPS: A. Use long back & forth sawing motions to reduce friction/damage to K.U.T. Concentrate sawing on a single point of item being cut.B. Wear gloves to protect your hand or create handles from a pen/stick.

---FIRE:
(11) *$2- Fire Tender Packet, Small (Vaseline filled cotton stuffing) TIPS: Cut open straw and fluff up cotton, keep in straw container to allow for a slow and smokier burntime.
(12) $3- Fire Tender Packet, Large(Vaseline filled cotton stuffing)
(13) $1- Survival Torch: Water/Wind Proof Match. Long burn time, Strong Flame, Requires Striking Surface or Spark.(14) $1- UCO Strike Anywhere Match. Carbonized,White Phosphorus Tipped.
(17) *$7- Fire Steel Ferrocerium Toggle Peg: Scrape slowly to shave off Ferro shards for use as combustible tinder. Strike quickly to ignite tinder. Reflect on sparks intonest of fine tinder, provide oxygen flow by blowing into the base of flame.
(18) *$3- Jute String/Tinder, 1 foot of 3 ply small rope, use as wound dressing for absorbent properties, tie down, fire tinder.
(19) $2- Tinder Tape Patch 2"x2":
(20) $5- Tinder Tape Stap 1ft: Heavy duty adhesive Duct Tape with added flammable strands allowing a slow tar like burn. Stick to your kindling and ignite or wrap arounda limb to use as a torch.

---AID & REPAIR:
(21) $8- S.A.R.K: Suture And Repair Kit- Angled Suture Needle(6 Size 5*12) Monofilament Line, Sewing Needle, Thread, 2x2 inch duct tape patch
(22) $13- Wound Seal: Quick Clotting Occlusive Dressing- Sterile prepackaged topical powder to instantly stop bleeding from open wounds.
(23) $6- Angled Suture Needle(6 Size 5*12), curved surgical suture with needlepoint, needle body , pinhole (the eye of a needle).
(24) $2- Small Bandage, sealed
(25) $1- Safety Pin: improvise as fish hook, pin broken arm's sleeve to chest for a sling, remove splinter.
(26) $1- Needle/Pick: repair a torn pack, modify a jacket, navigate by statically charging and floating on leaf, improvise as suture pin.
(27) $1- Duct Tape Patch (2x2 inch): patch and waterproof small holes, repair gear, use as bandage
(28) $2- Duct Tape Strap (6"x2"): waterproof tears to a tent, splint boat paddle, use as fly trap for protein
(29) *$15- Waterproof Pill Container, black (store water purification tablets, meds, tinder, alcohol pad, etc)
(30) *$3- Alcohol Prep Pad, 70% Isopropyl Alc. Antiseptic-Sterile (REQUIRES PILL CONTAINER)(31) *$5- F.A.T. First Aid Tinder, quick light cotton fire tinder soaked inanti-bacterial treatment.
(51) $10- 4"x2" Carbon Survival Tape: A strap of multi-use carbon fiber fabric being heat resistant to 1200?. This highly capillary tape can be improvised as a torch(wrap around limb and soak w/ fuel), oil lamp or stove(place in can and fill with fuel), conclusive dressing(absorbs exudate, creates flexible scab), gas/water mask filter(stuff in bottle, cut small hole in base, breath thru or strain water), signal fire(spell out SOS, soak with fuel, light).(55) $8- KiO3 Radiation Defense Tablet, 130mg: Shield against radiation exposure with this specific blocker of thyroid radio-iodine uptake. High dose potassium iodide for nuclear emergency scenarios.

---FOOD & WATER:
(32) *$8- P38 Can Opener, Black Plated: Use as Cutting Tool, Fire Striker, Screwdriver, Sinker and Weight, Knife Sharpener, polish off black to use as signal mirror.
(33) 7- Fishing Kit- 15 feet 6lb Fishing Line & SZ8 All-Purpose Fish Hook w/ 2x2 inch duct tape patch
(34) *$5- MSR Aquatab Water Purification Tablet(2liter treatment): Add 1 tab to 2l clear water, mix 10 minutes, let stand for 30 min, hydrate.
(35) $3- Square of Aluminum Foil (5x5 inch) (heavy duty for cooking, signalling, lure, Faraday cage, cup, etc)
(36) $3- 15ft of 8lb Fishing Line (packaged in 6" electrical tape) TIPS: Use nylon strings in paracord sheath to add extra line length.
(37) $4- Weedless Bait Fishing Hook (large) (38) $3- All Purpose Small Fishing Hook

---NAVIGATION & SIGNAL:(39) *$16- Luminous Compass. Fixed 360 Degree Dial. Subdued Fit on Paracord Bracelet. Water Proof/Impact Resistant.
(40) *$14- Clipper Compass. LAND -NAV spec w/360-degree dial. Features a rotating bezel with easy-to-read markings in 10-degree increments, liquid-filled capsule,jewel bearing and hardened steel needle. Compass also clips to the edge of a map, bag strap or the sleeve of your jacket.
(41) *$4- Luminous Glow Light Surface: charge in seconds from natural/artificial light source(flashlight, sun, phone screen) generates minutes of a low glow output forseeing a map or operation orders in dark environments.
(42) *$4- Reflective Signal Mirror Surface: use in sunny conditions as a short range signaling tool to alert others of your location.
(53) *$4- Retro Reflector Surface: use in night time search and rescue attempts to reflect your rescuer's search lights aiding in your recovery at sea or land.

---TOOLS & TACTICAL:
(43) $5- Mini Stainless Steel S-Carabiner
(45) $2- Ziptie, black(46) *$10- Non-Metallic Handcuff key
(47) *$25- Field Rifle Tool, front sight adjuster, AR-15/M4
(48) $2- Black Steel Plated Security Pin, (heavy duty safety pin)
(49) $1- Pick/Nail, Steel: Tack to tree for hanging gear, combine with 3in1 buckle to make a puncturing weapon by inserting in whistle opening.
(50) $1- Operator Tape- Black Insulation/Electrical Grade Vinyl/Rubber Adhesive strap used to secure noisy straps/clips on your ruck sack, add grip to pistol, wrap around a blister to prevent injury, black out small LED lights on electronic devices for concealed movement, repair a frayed wire, etc.
(15) *$3- Ranger Band: Fire Tender & Smoke Signal (30 Second burn time), heavy duty rubber band. TIPS: Use band to secure smaller items to your bracelet. (16) *$4Ranger Band Large: Gear Strapping, bundleloose items, water proof a survival tin, use as shock absorber on a compass, secure flashlight to a rifle, burn for a large signal flame, etc.

---SUPPORT:
(44) *$5- Micro Paracord Ink Pen: Always have a pen ready
(52) $20- Thermometer, Scubadiver: ? dial, crystal liquid filled dome, freeze/water proof.
(54) $4- Rite in Rain Sheet: jot down a note, grid coordinates, or a message on waterproof memo sheet. Use as tinder to start a fire.

Step 2: Select a fastening method Regardless of what tools you add to the core of the strap you are still going to need to have a buckle of some sort to snap it around your wrist. You could use a simple knot and loop method to tie off your bracelet but why not make that buckles useful tool also? Here are some examples that I offer and have used.

BUCKLES & FASTENERS: Choose 1 to 2 fasteners.
(1)*$25- LED Light w/ Flash Buckle. Water Resistant. Replaceable battery.
(2)*$15- 3in1: FireSteel Ferro Rod.Striker Blade and Cutting Tool. Emergency Whistle with improvised storage space. Create Fire: Scrape slowly to shave off Ferro shards for use as combustible tinder. Strike quickly to ignite tinder. Reflect on sparks into nest of fine tinder, provide oxygen flow by blowing into the base of flame. Signal for help: One whistle blast, "where are you", two blasts, "come here", three blasts, "help me". Or signal the SOS distress call with 3 short, 3 long, & 3 short blasts.
(3)*$10- Handcuff Key Buckle: non-metallic, concealed. Universal fit.
(4)*$9- Emergency Whistle Buckle, small, curved buckle.
(5)*$5- Standard Side Release Buckle w/ hidden storage compartment.
(6)*$7- Adjustable Black Stainless Steel Shackle (allows up to an inch of slack/tightness)

Step 3: Pick your paracord Self explanatory choose the paracord color and type you like.

PARACORD TYPES & COLORS: Choose One
(A) $10- Coyote Brown
(B) $10- Olive Drab Green
(C) $10- Black
(D) $15- Multi-Cam
(E) $15- Foliage
(F) $15- Royal Blue
(G) $15- Purple
(H) $15- Orange Blaze
(I) $15- Fireman Red
(J) $20- Reflective Neon Gray w/ Tracers
(K) $20- Reflective Neon Pink w/ Tracers
(L) $20- Reflective Neon Yellow w/ Tracers
(M) $35- Fire Cord: Black w/ Thin Red Line (entire bracelet, outer weave and core) (N) $25- Fire Cord: Black w/ Thin Red Line (core only)

This is a fire tinder paracord w/ 550lb tensile strength: Contains an inner combustible wick, easy ignite, strong flame, long burn time, waterproof.

Step 4: Pre-package your items and ready them for the bracelet. In order to secure all your selected gear inside the weave of the bracelet you will need to further prepare them by packing it away in duct tape, electrical tape, shrink wrap, straw, tube, or really anything that will waterproof and help you manage all the loose items. The top two ways that are easiest and cheapest are tape and straws.

PACK IN DUCT TAPE: Some items that are hard to manage, not waterproof, or pose a hazard. These type of items should be packed in a small patch of duct tape. This will not only make them easier to insert in the bracelet but will also give you reusable duct tape (use tape that matches your paracord color). Electrical tape also works well for sharp items like a nail or xacto blade.

Cut a 2”x2” piece of duct tape and lay out a few small items on the end and roll it up.

PACK IN A STRAW: Other items can be packed into a plastic straw. Grab pliers, lighter, and poking tool(screw driver). Cut the straw to fit your needs, burn and pinch one end, stuff the item in the straw using the poker(screw driver or tooth pick), burn and pinch the other end.

OTHER: Remember some items just need to be organized or secured together rather than be taped up or put in a straw tube. In the photo you can see how I rolled up a 5"x5" square of foil then taped a ziptie and length of jute rope to it. This makes it easier to hold to the core of the bracelet while you weave over it. Apply this method to large items.

Step 5: Craft a Cobra Weave Bracelet & Insert your survival gear CRAFTING A COBRA WEAVE BRACELET: First you need to know how to make a standard cobra weave bracelet (you can find plenty of instructables on that). Begin crafting the bracelet by attaching paracord between the two ends of your buckle and starting the cobra weave. The length of cord between the buckles will be called the “core”. The core is where you will insert the smaller items such as a needle, blade, or water purification tablet.

TIP: Fit more in your strap by using a core made up of 6 total strands of cord rather than the standard two. This creates a wider base holding more gear.

Remember some larger items can be attached to the outside of the bracelet. Examples would be a compass, p38, or kevlar thread hidden under a ranger band.

WEAVING IN SURVIVAL ITEMS: As you begin the cobra weave, insert small items either individually or in your pre-packaged duct tape/straw. 1. Begin a loose weave but don’t tighten it yet. 2. Insert an item by sliding it up under the open weave. 3 Hold the item secure while you tighten and snug down the paracord. 4. Adjust the item as needed to conceal it as you continue to weave over it.

Step 6: Finishing up. Now finish off your weave by cutting off the remaining cordage and singe/burn the ends.
Add on any final items that you want secured to the outside such as a ranger band with a wound seal secured under it.
Strap it around your wrist and always have a survival kit with you! For more info check out our FB page at www.facebook.com/superessestraps or buy one at www.etsy.com/shop/superesseparacord .

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Trap and Snare Construction

12/14/2014

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By Survival Ready Blog Team

Traps and snares crush, choke, hang, or entangle the prey. A single trap or snare will commonly incorporate two or more of these principles. The mechanisms that provide power to the trap are almost always very simple. The struggling victim, the force of gravity, or a bent sapling's tension provides the power.

The heart of any trap or snare is the trigger. When planning a trap or snare, ask yourself how it should affect the prey, what is the source of power, and what will be the most efficient trigger. Your answers will help you devise a specific trap for a specific species. Traps are designed to catch and hold or to catch and kill. Snares are traps that incorporate a noose to accomplish either function.

Simple Snare

A simple snare consists of a noose placed over a trail or den hole and attached to a firmly planted stake. If the noose is some type of cordage placed upright on a game trail, use small twigs or blades of grass to hold it up. Filaments from spider webs are excellent for holding nooses open. Make sure the noose is large enough to pass freely over the animal's head. As the animal continues to move, the noose tightens around its neck. The more the animal struggles, the tighter the noose gets. This type of snare usually does not kill the animal. If you use cordage, it may loosen enough to slip off the animal's neck. Wire is therefore the best choice for a simple snare.

Drag Noose

Use a drag noose on an animal run. Place forked sticks on either side of the run and lay a sturdy cross member across them. Tie the noose to the cross member and hang it at a height above the animal's head. (Nooses designed to catch by the head should never be low enough for the prey to step into with a foot.) As the noose tightens around the animal's neck, the animal pulls the cross member from the forked sticks and drags it along. The surrounding vegetation quickly catches the cross member and the animal becomes entangled.

Twitch-Up

A twitch-up is a supple sapling, which, when bent over and secured with a triggering device, will provide power to a variety of snares. Select a hardwood sapling along the trail. A twitch-up will work much faster and with more force if you remove all the branches and foliage.

Twitch-Up Snare

A simple twitch-up snare uses two forked sticks, each with a long and short leg. Bend the twitch-up and mark the trail below it. Drive the long leg of one forked stick firmly into the ground at that point. Ensure the cut on the short leg of this stick is parallel to the ground. Tie the long leg of the remaining forked stick to a piece of cordage secured to the twitch-up. Cut the short leg so that it catches on the short leg of the other forked stick. Extend a noose over the trail. Set the trap by bending the twitch-up and engaging the short legs of the forked sticks. When an animal catches its head in the noose, it pulls the forked sticks apart, allowing the twitch-up to spring up and hang the prey.

Note: Do not use green sticks for the trigger. The sap that oozes out could glue them together.

Squirrel Pole

A squirrel pole is a long pole placed against a tree in an area showing a lot of squirrel activity. Place several wire nooses along the top and sides of the pole so that a squirrel trying to go up or down the pole will have to pass through one or more of them. Position the nooses (5 to 6 centimeters in diameter) about 2.5 centimeters off the pole. Place the top and bottom wire nooses 45 centimeters from the top and bottom of the pole to prevent the squirrel from getting its feet on a solid surface. If this happens, the squirrel will chew through the wire. Squirrels are naturally curious. After an initial period of caution, they will try to go up or down the pole and will get caught in a noose. The struggling animal will soon fall from the pole and strangle. Other squirrels will soon follow and, in this way, you can catch several squirrels. You can emplace multiple poles to increase the catch.

Ojibwa Bird Pole

An Ojibwa bird pole is a snare used by native Americans for centuries. To be effective, place it in a relatively open area away from tall trees. For best results, pick a spot near feeding areas, dusting areas, or watering holes. Cut a pole 1.8 to 2.1 meters long and trim away all limbs and foliage. Do not use resinous wood such as pine. Sharpen the upper end to a point, then drill a small diameter hole 5 to 7.5 centimeters down from the top. Cut a small stick 10 to 15 centimeters long and shape one end so that it will almost fit into the hole. This is the perch. Plant the long pole in the ground with the pointed end up. Tie a small weight, about equal to the weight of the targeted species, to a length of cordage. Pass the free end of the cordage through the hole, and tie a slip noose that covers the perch. Tie a single overhand knot in the cordage and place the perch against the hole. Allow the cordage to slip through the hole until the overhand knot rests against the pole and the top of the perch. The tension of the overhand knot against the pole and perch will hold the perch in position. Spread the noose over the perch, ensuring it covers the perch and drapes over on both sides. Most birds prefer to rest on something above ground and will land on the perch. As soon as the bird lands, the perch will fall, releasing the over-hand knot and allowing the weight to drop. The noose will tighten around the bird's feet, capturing it. If the weight is too heavy, it will cut the bird's feet off, allowing it to escape.

Noosing Wand

A noose stick or "noosing wand" is useful for capturing roosting birds or small mammals. It requires a patient operator. This wand is more a weapon than a trap. It consists of a pole (as long as you can effectively handle) with a slip noose of wire or stiff cordage at the small end. To catch an animal, you slip the noose over the neck of a roosting bird and pull it tight. You can also place it over a den hole and hide in a nearby blind. When the animal emerges from the den, you jerk the pole to tighten the noose and thus capture the animal. Carry a stout club to kill the prey.

Treadle Spring Snare

Use a treadle snare against small game on a trail. Dig a shallow hole in the trail. Then drive a forked stick (fork down) into the ground on each side of the hole on the same side of the trail. Select two fairly straight sticks that span the two forks. Position these two sticks so that their ends engage the forks. Place several sticks over the hole in the trail by positioning one end over the lower horizontal stick and the other on the ground on the other side of the hole. Cover the hole with enough sticks so that the prey must step on at least one of them to set off the snare. Tie one end of a piece of cordage to a twitch-up or to a weight suspended over a tree limb. Bend the twitch-up or raise the suspended weight to determine where You will tie a 5 centimeter or so long trigger. Form a noose with the other end of the cordage. Route and spread the noose over the top of the sticks over the hole. Place the trigger stick against the horizontal sticks and route the cordage behind the sticks so that the tension of the power source will hold it in place. Adjust the bottom horizontal stick so that it will barely hold against the trigger. A the animal places its foot on a stick across the hole, the bottom horizontal stick moves down, releasing the trigger and allowing the noose to catch the animal by the foot. Because of the disturbance on the trail, an animal will be wary. You must therefore use channelization.

Figure 4 Deadfall

The figure 4 is a trigger used to drop a weight onto a prey and crush it. The type of weight used may vary, but it should be heavy enough to kill or incapacitate the prey immediately. Construct the figure 4 using three notched sticks. These notches hold the sticks together in a figure 4 pattern when under tension. Practice making this trigger before-hand; it requires close tolerances and precise angles in its construction.

Paiute Deadfall

The Paiute deadfall is similar to the figure 4 but uses a piece of cordage and a catch stick. It has the advantage of being easier to set than the figure 4. Tie one end of a piece of cordage to the lower end of the diagonal stick. Tie the other end of the cordage to another stick about 5 centimeters long. This 5-centimeter stick is the catch stick. Bring the cord halfway around the vertical stick with the catch stick at a 90-degree angle. Place the bait stick with one end against the drop weight, or a peg driven into the ground, and the other against the catch stick. When a prey disturbs the bait stick, it falls free, releasing the catch stick. As the diagonal stick flies up, the weight falls, crushing the prey.

Bow Trap

A bow trap is one of the deadliest traps. It is dangerous to man as well as animals. To construct this trap, build a bow and anchor it to the ground with pegs. Adjust the aiming point as you anchor the bow. Lash a toggle stick to the trigger stick. Two upright sticks driven into the ground hold the trigger stick in place at a point where the toggle stick will engage the pulled bow string. Place a catch stick between the toggle stick and a stake driven into the ground. Tie a trip wire or cordage to the catch stick and route it around stakes and across the game trail where you tie it off. When the prey trips the trip wire, the bow looses an arrow into it. A notch in the bow serves to help aim the arrow.

WARNING:This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution and from the rear only!

Pig Spear Shaft

To construct the pig spear shaft, select a stout pole about 2.5 meters long. At the smaller end, firmly lash several small stakes. Lash the large end tightly to a tree along the game trail. Tie a length of cordage to another tree across the trail. Tie a sturdy, smooth stick to the other end of the cord. From the first tree, tie a trip wire or cord low to the ground, stretch it across the trail, and tie it to a catch stick. Make a slip ring from vines or other suitable material. Encircle the trip wire and the smooth stick with the slip ring. Emplace one end of another smooth stick within the slip ring and its other end against the second tree. Pull the smaller end of the spear shaft across the trail and position it between the short cord and the smooth stick. As the animal trips the trip wire, the catch stick pulls the slip ring off the smooth sticks, releasing the spear shaft that springs across the trail and impales the prey against the tree.

WARNING:This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution!

Bottle Trap

A bottle trap is a simple trap for mice and voles. Dig a hole 30 to 45 centimeters deep that is wider at the bottom than at the top. Make the top of the hole as small as possible. Place a piece of bark or wood over the hole with small stones under it to hold it up 2.5 to 5 centimeters off the ground. Mice or voles will hide under the cover to escape danger and fall into the hole. They cannot climb out because of the wall's backward slope. Use caution when checking this trap; it is an excellent hiding place for snakes.

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3 Critical Elements on Setting up Your Survival Camp

12/8/2014

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By Randy A.

If you are planning on taking to the woods for your bug out, or even just spending time there brushing up on skills, picking the right spot for your stay is important.

Shelter

Your shelter should be located out of the wind. Always look for loose rocks or dead trees/limbs that could fall on your shelter.

The shelter itself should be made so it is warm and comfortable. If you can manage it have the entrance facing downwind so that you can build your fire in front and catch the heat in your shelter.

Learn to make a shelter that does the best in your local region. To find the best options study how the Native Americans in your area lived. They used native materials and built shelters that fit what they needed to survive in any given area.

Water

Water is your second priority after shelter. Locate your shelter close to a potable water source. But not too close, you will need to take into account possible flooding.

Another reason I like to be a little ways away from water is the noise factor. Setting up camp right next to even a small stream will mask many sounds with running water.

Food

Set your camp in an area that can provide you with food in the long term. This can mean places to hunt, fish, trap, and gather wild edibles.

A string of small traps can be set all around your camp to catch small game. You can set several hundred small deadfalls to catch rodents and possibly larger traps to catch larger game.

About the author
Randy Augsburger lives and writes from an old farm that has been in his family since 1866. Born in northwest Ohio, Randy grew up in a small town in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. He draws on his experiences of hunting, fishing, trapping and prospecting for his writing. Randy is also an ordained Southern Baptist preacher.

You find his writing blog at http://randyswrite.blogspot.com/

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Keep Supplies Safe During a Power Outage

11/21/2014

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Winter is here, and for large number of people in the country that means single digit temperatures, snow storms and a lot of shoveling snow. With the snow and low temperatures it causes power lines to bear more weight than usual and increases probability of power outages. Being prepared before the power goes out is one f those basic things everyone should do. Basic things, like locating flashlights and matches somewhere where they are readily available and making sure they are in working condition, are a must do if you live in an area exposed to that kind of weather in the winter. Below is an article that lays out several tips on how to prepare for and keep your supplies safe during a power outage. Click here to read full post…

“Of course, the best time to prepare for a disaster is before it strikes – but, when you find yourself facing any sort of emergency before you’ve had time to prepare, you’ll want to do everything you can to protect your precious supplies – especially food and water. Keep these tips in mind (or print them out and keep them on hand) in case you ever find yourself caught off guard.

Of course, the biggest concern is food spoilage. You can minimize the amount of spoilage experienced by:

1. Keep the doors to your freezer and refrigerator closed, and food will stay cold for about four hours.
2. Keep a thermometer in the refrigerator to monitor temperatures. Food that reaches 40 degrees or higher can’t be refrozen and should be disposed of.

In addition to these tips, be sure to keep a minimum of three days of non-perishable food items on hand that don’t require running water or heating for consumption.

Keeping Water Safe During a Power Outage
In some areas, water may stop flowing to your home if the power is out. When this happens, you’ll have no choice but to rely on personal water supplies or water purification devices. It’s best to keep a supply of water on hand.

Not including washing, and cleaning, the average person needs at least one gallon of water per day to remain properly hydrated. The more water you can store, the better off you’ll be – but be sure to keep at least five gallons on hand for each adult and child in your household.

Keeping Other Survival Supplies Safe During a Power Outage
While most of your supplies are unlikely to suffer damage during a power supply, there’s always a chance that desperate neighbors come to your home for help. Protect yourself and your family by keeping the details of your supplies to a minimum. Your neighbors are far less likely to try and steal what they don’t know you have.”

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